<blockquote class=“Quote” rel=“pagamony”>I have mounted all my family skis and several friend’s skis for a decade but I am absolutely no expert. </blockquote>
I do my own tuning but this is the absolute one thing I’ll never do. The various costs of a blown knee (hospital, no work, lack of activities you could do, etc.) is simply just too great and I’ll pay the $25 to get a professional to do it. Heck, recovering from my broken leg this spring has been a hard time. It was a compression fracture with a caught edge while stopping, no ligament damage. Bindings don’t work in that type of event at all, you need a torque (rotational force) either left-right or front-back.
According to my former (due to a move on my part) ski shop tech, the best ones out there don’t use the DINs at all. Instead, they set your binding against recommended torque settings. Why is this? There’s just too much variability even with new bindings: numbers weren’t printed right, springs lose strength, etc. Sure the high school kid in the rental shop goes by the DINs to set them fast, but they usually set them lower than what your weight, boot length, and ability level dictates. 99% of the time, a pre-release is better than no release and a sled ride down the hill.
That said, going by the published charts out there, I agree with joshua_segal, it seems OP’s DIN settings are a little high, unless OP has small feet.
As for if the binding is right for OP, I have no technical knowledge. It is my understanding that the vast majority of adult bindings (those that go to 10 or more) are suitable for the vast majority of adults. My two thoughts on the matter are: as you get older, you’ll lose your aggressiveness and your DIN will go down; and your new binding you’ll be 2 away from the end vs. 1 away as of today, meaning the springs won’t be at as much of an extreme. My 2¢.
